If you want a mustard-based barbecue sauce:Our tasters were drawn to the brightly coloredOgre Sauce, a Carolina gold-style mustard-based sauce that snuck its way into our lineup of Kansas City–style contenders (thanks to a glowing review from a Wirecutter staffer, a nondescript name, and a vague online description). The mustard lent a fantastic zip that awakened our palates, and the sauce was downright delightful on grilled chicken — the heat coaxed out its sweetness and mellowed the mustard’s bite. We’d also try slathering Ogre Sauce on a sandwich, and it was even good for dunking nuggets. The only reasons it’s not a pick are because it falls outside the perimeters of the smoky-sweet flavor profile we were testing for in this guide, and because we haven’t tasted enough sauces in this style to fairly call it the best.